I remember the first time I saw a kumquat – it was in the Tel Aviv shuk (market) and they were piled high like a million mini-oranges. after I got over the initial shock that they are in fact called Kumquats – which I thought was a joke - I proceeded to pop one, then another, into my mouth. I remember the initial burst of sour as I crunched through the skin, which molded into sweet as the juices released. kumquats have since become one of my favorite fruits and I throw them on salads all winter long. they’re very versatile as they’re delicious whole, cut up, raw on salads, or cooked down into various sauces or chutneys. kumquats themselves are warming and help to alleviate phlegm, and are used in conjunction with ginger in Chinese medicine to alleviate coughs. this recipe came out of an inkling my lady and I had on a warm, late-winter evening a week or so back, when we decided it was time to get the grill going once again.

we woke up very early and headed out to the Monterey Fish Company at their wholesale location here in San Francisco on Pier 33. It was incredible to see crate upon crate of various fish – from tiny shiny night smelt to three feet long bass with mouths wide-open. Monterey Fish Company focuses on sustainable seafood and quality product, and we went in ready to get whatever type of fish they suggested. after a great tour of the facility and a little poking and prodding around, the fish mongers suggested we try Opah. Also known as moonfish, popular in Hawaii, this fish has a light flavor but meaty texture, so it was good for the grill. we came up with this chutney recipe to accompany the fish, and for the seasoning of the Opah we simply put salt, pepper, lemon zest & a little lemon juice on either side just before grilling. the chutney would be great with any fish that yields well to a citrus-y flavor.

Grilled Opah with Kumquat Chutney

¼ red onion, minced

apple cider vinegar to cover minced onions

2 cups kumquat

1 fennel bulb, sliced very thin

2 teaspoons minced ginger

1 teaspoon minced Serrano chili

¼ cup white wine

1-2 tablespoons agave (to taste)

2 teaspoons mint, sliced thin

sea salt

1. Soak onions in apple cider vinegar to cover for 5 minutes, strain and set aside both vinegar and onions for use later.
2. Sweat down fennel and ginger, chili & a pinch of salt for 5 minutes on medium heat. Add kumquats and cardamom and cook covered on medium-low heat for 5 minutes, allowing kumquats to soften.
3. Add white wine and allow to cook off uncovered for another 10 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of reserved apple cider vinegar, plus the onions and agave. Cook until mixture is bubbly and thickened, and the kumquats very soft. Add salt to taste.
4. Remove from heat and garnish with mint. Serve over grilled opah or any meaty fish.